Friday, December 27, 2013

Costa Rica - Day 6 - Arenal to Manuel Antonio

For our last night in Arenal, it piss poured rain all night so none of us slept particularly well.  It was still raining the next morning when we woke up, and Arenal volcano wasn't even visible with the fog.  We had a quick breakfast before our driver Tony came to pick us up for 7:30am.  I managed to run over to the pool to get a quick picture before we departed:

 Our original itinerary had us visiting Poas Volcano and a Coffee plantation along the long route from Arenal to Manual Antonio, but Tony suggested that we skip the volcano considering we wouldn't be able to see it anyway.  He suggested that a better destination would be the Peace Lodge Sanctuary, which was a privately owned animal sactuary. I was immediately excited, and far more interested in animals than another volcano, but the other girls weren't all as convinced as I was.  Luckily we are a very diplomatic group, and once Sabina joined my 'hard yes' side, the other girls were convinced that they would come too.

Before we wound our way up the mountain to the Lodge's entrance, Tony pulled off the side of the road so that we could see the Peace Waterfall.  We would be able to see it once in the lodge anyway, but this view point was really impressive.  With the massive rain fall from the night before, the water was just bursting  from the mountain.  It was quite brown and absolutely massive.  The water drop was...let's say a billion feet high...and had a force of...let's say a billion...um...pounds.  I don't know, but it was pretty freaking awesome.

The lodge was just beautiful, and you can actually stay there (which I definitely will if I ever go back to this area in Costa Rica).  Even the bathrooms were spectacular.

The first pavilion we visited was their series bird rooms. All of them were very large and full of gardens and waterfalls.  They were separated into areas, the first of which was for the smaller song birds.  We were able to just stroll through the room with the birds free range around us.  A little further into this room, there was a sectioned off area with toucans and some Lodge workers.  I never realized how much I loved toucans before coming to Costa Rica and seeing them in real life.  I was just as excited to see them as I was to see wild monkeys.  The toucans were a collection of confiscated pets, un-rehabitable animals, and bred in captivity birds.  In this area workers let us each hold one.  
Just a couple steps closer...and I'm
gonna shit all down your arm...
They are similar in weight to a macaw but their beaks are pretty solid.  I think holding that toucan was one of the highlights of my trip.  which is saying a lot when you're in Costa Rica.  There were a good 20+ toucans in that room, some on the ground, some with the works, and a few above us in the rafters.  Just as we were about to head out to continue our tour, one of them pooped down Caroline's arm!  
It looked like oatmeal.  Luckily she was wearing a rain jacket.  


 



 The rest of the bird area had a variety of parrots, a few Canadian-looking ducks, a random albino squirrel, and a variety of other birds that were beautiful but we were unfamiliar with.  Then it was onto the hummingbirds.  At this point in our trip, hummingbirds were beginning to get as unexciting as pigeons in Toronto, but they are always a good challenge to photograph, those zippy little buggers.  

The butterfly enclosure was next, and despite the dusty framed collection of dead butterfly's that lined the foyer into the enclosure, inside it was significantly more beautiful and significantly less creepy.  I'd been to the butterfly conservatory in Niagara Falls before, but it has nothing on this place.  There were tons of butterfly's everywhere.  One even landed on me for a little while!  Think of all the brightest butterfly's you've ever seen in photos, and they were all there. The staff puts out slices of fruit out for the butterfly's to drink from, and since they're so accustomed to people, you can get close enough to them to check out their long spiraled tongues.  There was another section where they had a board of pupa's pinned in groups according to species.  There were a few butterfly's that had just emerged and were resting on their name plates while their wings straightened out.  

The next pavilion were the snakes.  Costa Rica has a lot of snakes, and most of them are terrifying.  I'm not a squeamish person, and I've held plenty of snakes, but there is definitely something about their eyes that is unsettling...especially when the word "venomous" is printed on their name plates.  What's more, these are all snakes that are roaming around Costa Rica, potentially plotting to kill us.  The most interesting part of the snake exhibit was the sign mounted on the wall that debunks many commonly believed snake 'facts'.  I wish I had taken a picture of it for prosperity, but the things that I remember are:
  • Not all venomous snake bites are venomous.  They might be 'dry' bites, meaning they've recently attacked something else and their supply hasn't replenished, or they just didn't inject you.
  • The actual amount of snake bites each is remarkably low, and most of those are from bare-footed field workers who step on the snakes.
  • More people die from the anti-venom than the actual bite.  Anti-venom is made by injecting small amounts of venom into horses, and the horses antibodies are then removed.  Those people allergic to horses (myself included) could go into anaphylactic shock from the remedy. 


The frog rooms were short and sweet. The rooms were open with one attendant in each to answer questions and point out their frogs to you. The rooms were really warm and smelled like rotting fruit, thanks to the bananas kept on the ground to feel the bugs, which in turn feed the frogs. The first of two had a couple varieties of poison dart frogs. The mini red ones were all around the pond in the centre of the room, while the green and black camo frogs were around the perimeter of the rooms in the plants.  We were told that another reason why you cannot touch the frogs -aside from their poison- is the our temperature is so high to them that they'll burn on contact!  The second room contained lime green tree frogs.  These are the guys that rain forests are known for, and it was quite difficult to find them all.  The attendant in that room said she takes about an hour at the start of her shift to rummage around and find them all since they're so great at camouflage.  

The next part of the Lodge was what we were really here to see...monkeys and jaguars!  The capuchin monkeys were very cute, but the spider monkeys wouldn't cooperate for a photograph. They were too high up in their tree house and just not interested in coming to see us.  Their information board told us that their disappearance from the wild is staggering, having gone down 76% in the last decade.  I guess that's why there's not too interested in pleasing the tourists.


The Ocelots were very cute.  They were all cuddled up together in a high hollowed out trunk.  They first groomed each other, then purred for a while, then randomly fought for for a minute.  They were bigger than house cats obviously, but not as big as I had thought they would be.  Still a very huggable size though, if not for the 4" of plexiglass between us. There were two cougars in a really big cage, complete with waterfall.  They were a bit too far back from the glass for us to get a good picture of them, but it was great to see what a beautiful house they had.

There were also some Margays, which are very similar to the Ocelots, though they primarily live higher in the trees, have slightly different markings and body proportions, but seemed just as huggable.  They were sleeping in the same type of tree house that the Ocelots were in.  They were fast asleep, but when I circled around back of their cage afterward I noticed they had emerged, so I ran back to get a proper photo.  They also had a kitten that was separated, and this one was the size of a house cat.  I tried desperately to coax him awake, but he just slept there with his head upside down all adorable-like.

The Jaguar was not huggable.  Not even a little.  He was downright terrifying.  His head was a big square cinderblock and the sign next to him said he could crush our skulls with one chomp.  Because he knew he was the boss, he was chilling out on a stump very close to the glass keeping one eye on us at all times.  It was getting pretty close to his feeding time, so I bet he was sizing us up, daydreaming about which one of us he'd eat first.  They were in the midst of building a new pen right next to his, and I imagine the fumes of paint were affecting him.  Nothing more scary than a huge, hungry, and high jungle cat.

Our last stop along the path there was a typical Costa Rican cabana that you could go inside to check out. They had a pair of decorated oxen out front and a regular house cat inside.  That was good, because after all the fuzzy cuteness I had just experienced I really needed to pet something. 

After we had been through all the animal exhibits we made our way to the waterfalls.  They have a series of 4 or 5 great big water falls with paths and bridges to observe them from.  A sign informed us that they built all these paths and bridges without removing a single tree, plant or vine!  They hand carried all supplies and equipment down the hill to as not to hurt or disturb the nature environment.  That is a crazy impressive feat considering how steep and slippery the area is.  I cannot even comprehend how they even began that project, but I find it highly respectable.  

Sunday, December 8, 2013

Costa Rica Day 4 - Arenal

We woke up pretty early to make good on the free buffet breakfast. It was a hearty meal well needed after our 10 minute trek uphill to the main lodge. Each day there was a variety of tropical fruits and fresh juices, typical Costa Rica fare such as fried plantains and beans and rice, as well as pancakes, donuts, scrambled eggs, toast, cereal, tea and coffee. We ate our breakfast in front of a huge picture window facing Arena Volcano. The staff hung fruit in the trees so we had some toucans and other colourful birds as entertainment as well. 
The road from our cabin to the lodge

After breakfast we hung put on the deck a bit to take photos when a coatimundi joined us and caught a wiff of the banana I had packed into my bag. I tried to shoo him away, but he was determined and managed to open my bags zipper with his snout. He sat there and ate it under a big sign that clearly read "Don't feed the animals" while a bunch of guests laughed and took photos.

The goal of the day was to hike up Cerro Chato. Of the hikes available in Arenal, this was rated 'difficult' and was estimated to take 4 hours. We had a beautiful day with perfect weather and set off down the road. 


There was a half hour hike to the start of the trail and we saw some bizarre cows in a field on the way there. I called them "cow-mels" but we later found out they are called something like 'Vamya'.

Cow-mel = Vamya

Our hike started uphill and lasted that way for 2.5 hours. I was so glad to have brought a hiking pole, if only for this hike alone. We were consistently climbing, using the tree roots sometimes as steps, sometimes as ladders. It was pretty challenging for all of us, but especially for Sabina who had dislocated her knee only a few days before our vacation. We stopped a lot for breathers, disguised as an interest in taking photos. It was beautiful though and felt like we were in Jurassic Park.

Once we reached the top of the crater there was a look out over the centre, which is now a mineral-rich lake. In order get down to the water we had to hike some more around the edge, which was hilariously muddy. I think I did a decent job of keeping my shoes clean while everyone else destroyed theirs. Caroline in particular just walked through the swamps.

The path down to the centre was even steeper than the mountain we hiked up. It was so steep it was nearly vertical and we slipped a few times. When the odd fellow hiker tried to make their way up the crater, it was difficult to accommodate both bodies on the narrow path.

Finally, at the bottom we were so incredibly sweaty and muddy that Sandra, Christine, Heidi ad Sabina couldn't resist and jumped in. Theoretically I would have loved to jointed but despite the sweat, it was just too cold for me. Caroline and I were content to just wading knee demand take photos. The guidebook warn tat swimming isn't a great idea due to the minerals so they didn't stay in for too long.

After the near-treacherous climb to the top we rested at another scenic look out and were able to photograph the entire Arena Volcano, which only 40% of visitors get to see! While there we chatted with some other tourists and guides, and they shared their snacks with us.

We then began our hike down the other side of the volcano. This route was still somewhat steep but no where close to what we'd already gone through. it was a good hour before we emerged from the forest, but as we were soon to find utter a good 2 hours from reaching the finishing at Fortunate Falls. This 'home stretch' took us through a farmers field that was lumpy with huge mogles. It was honestly worse to walk through than the initial climb!

I swam in that!
We reached La Fortuna waterfall and I surprised everyone by not only getting into the cold water, but also being the first to do it. I was regretting not swimming in the crater of a volcano and was dog-determined not to miss out again. The water fall was beautiful and huge. We swam a bit in the first pool before opting to go into the safer second pool instead, where the current was significantly less strong.





Our day was capped off by a visit to the thermal hot springs. We purposely paired our first major hike with a soak in the thermal hot springs and it was wonderful! We were sore, stinky, and tired and we deserved it! We arrived just after dark (which isn't hard when the sun sets before 6pm) and the scenery was just incredible. The hot Springs themselves were natural, but had pools built around them. A total of 6 pools ranging from boiling to hot, and one cool pool made up most of their facilities, with lawn chairs around the decks. The pools flowed into each other via waterfall and one pool had a lava-hot spot on the ground that burnt your foot if you left it there too long. We jumped from tub to tub for over an hour and finished our session by hanging out on the pool chaises. 

Costa Rica Day 5 – Arenal

This was our laziest day during our whole trip, which worked out well because it rained on an off all day. That didn't stop Heidi, though, she took off for a white water rafting trip, while the rest of us kept close to the lodge for the day. Sabina elected to take it easy on her poor knee after the strenuous hike the day before, while Caroline, Christine, Sandra and I set off for a 2.5 hike around the Arenal Lodge grounds: 


We didn't have much luck in seeing animals (specifically the fluffy kind) during our hike, but we did manage to learn quite a few interesting things about plants:
  • Borrowed from:
    http://www.htbg.com/search.php?family=Marantaceae
    The 'corn-like' plant is actually called a snake plant, in honour of the serpents who tend to loiter around it. The concave petals fill up with rain water that you can drink, and hummingbirds are attracted to it as well...hence the presence of snakes. A hydrated hummingbird is a tasty hummingbird.
  • If you happen to be bitten by a venomous snake you should lay still and have a friend fetch help. If you move too much the venom may get to your heart before you find a doctor.

  • borrowed from: http://www.flickriver.com/photos/tags/shameplant/interesting/
    The 'sleeping plant' droops if you touch it, as a defense against insects. You can also make a paste of of the leaves to use as an anesthetic for tooth aches. It was really fun petting the leaves of this plant and watching them all wilt simultaneously.



  • Eucalyptus trees were introduced to Costa Rica somewhat recently because they grow very fast, very straight and very thick and are therefore used for lumber instead of the native rainforest trees. Our guide compared a very tall eucalyptus tree to its neighbour and told us that the significantly taller eucalyptus was only 20 years old, while the native tree was over 100. As well, the eucalyptus doesn't support any other plants growing on it, whereas the native trees hold untold amounts of additional vegetation.


  • Likewise, North American Pine trees were introduced because they shield strong wind. Arenal has planted a bunch on their site because the lodge it on top of a hill and they kept control the wind. Unlike the eucalyptus, pine trees allow other plants to grow on them like their native counterparts. The Costa Rican electricity department (called ICE, which is funny to see painted on posts and rocks in the too-humid city) tried to use them for telephone and electricity poles but the 16 varieties of woodpeckers have rendered them unsafe now. They are in the process of replacing them all now.









Those triangles above his eyes are pretty eyelashes
Towards the end of our hike our guide pointed out a long thin snake curled up in on a tree stump/light post. We were allowed to take photos of him so long as we kept the flash off so as not to frighten him. I got up very close to use my macro setting, and right after me a 10 year old girl photographed him, but used her flash. This is when the guide casually mentioned that this was the eyelash viper, one of the more venomous species in Costa Rica. If it had bit either of us, the venom could potentially have rendered us blind before paralyzing our muscles, ultimately stopping our lungs, heart and brain. Thanks tour guide!


After we dried off from our guide and had lunch, we got ready and cabbed into town to meet up with Heidi. We had a really great dinner at the Lave Lounge and headed home to get a decent sleep in before our early morning transfer the next morning